| Jeff Poulter & Graham Tillotson: 18th September 2004 |
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Pisco to Nazca
Tonight we're in Nazca which is where the lines and drawings in the desert are, and tomorrow at 7.00 we're taking a flight in a small plane to take a look. Should be fascinating.
The ride today has been surprisingly warm. We've had a couple of days really cold and misty weather: sufficiently cold for us to replace the thermal liners in our jackets and trousers. But today it dawned bright and sunny so we sweltered. Most of the trip was pretty boring - more desert - but for one interesting incident. We had stopped to examine some cotton plants which were in flower (a surprisingly pretty lemon yellow flower, too) when a bloke came cycling up. He turned out to be a German who was cycling around the world, heading north to Alaska, hence across to Russia, through Russia and Poland home. He started the other way, towards Australia 29 month ago and has promised his mum he'll be back in Berlin for her 60th birthday...in 2006. I guess you'd have to call him a real traveller, especially as he was camping and carrying all his kit and two spare tyres, draped all over the bike. A fit traveller, to boot. When he heard that we have started at Alaska four months ago he asked us why we were rushing! Nice bloke, complete nut. We bade farewell and off he cycled towards big mountains, hauling his 70kg of gear. What is it about cyclists that separates them from reality, sanity and the rest of us? Probably that frontal lobotomy. You can often see the scars...
We had the oil changed in the bikes yesterday in Pisco. Pisco's a dump with no facilities, and hotels without signs. However, whilst we were touring round and round trying to locate the sign-less hotel I noticed a grubby workshop where a couple of blokes had tipped those three-wheeled motor bike taxis on their sides and were setting about their mechanical gizzards with gusto. I asked the mechanic if he could change our oil and he readily agreed so to do, now sir, if you wish. We wished so went and fetched the bikes from the hotel. Immediately a large crowd formed with endless questions, most of which were difficult to understand, particularly those from a ten year old girl who was fascinated by Graham's gleaming pate. I then realised that there are no bald people here except tourists. While the mechanic was draining oil all over the ground, the ten year old was probing the lack of hair question. Then she started on eyes, the colour thereof, glasses and contact lenses. As GT parried the ever more pointed probing I disappeared into the workshop to check what oils were available. Having satisfied myself that we were getting the right stuff I returned to the crowd scene outside where even more people had turned up to view the gringos. It was all so good natured and the little girl had the crowd in stitches with her questions, many of which neither of us understood but the assembled company did, and howled their appreciation.
Half an hour later and 75 Soles (13 quids) lighter we rode away and tucked
the bikes up for the night. And tonight they are warm and comfy too, parked
in the reception of a rather nice hotel on the main square of Nazca. It
was another of the ride the bike over the pavement and through the lobby
routines which I enjoy so much. Graham has joined in now and rides his
own bike through hotels, instead of me doing it for him. Great fun.
Jeff 18.09.04 |
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